DIY Trip: From Conan's Shirahama to Akanarika's Tokyo

Plan

Travel Preparation

• SIM Card: Get a Joytel telecom SIM card with 10GB data for 15 days, priced around 70 yuan. Based on reviews, it should be reliable and stable throughout your trip in Japan. Recommended Taobao store: “Shanghai Qianxin Travel Exclusive Store” offers a 15-day 10GB 4G network travel SIM card.
• Kansai Wide Area 5-Day JR Pass: Purchase the electronic ticket for 512 yuan, with children’s tickets at half price. You can exchange it for a physical ticket with a specified start date at the Japan airport or major JR stations, and then start using it.
• Universal Studios Japan tickets
• Exchange Japanese Yen: Since cash is widely used in Japan for payments, it’s recommended to have some Japanese yen on hand. For an 11-day trip, preparing around 150,000 yen should cover your basic expenses, while trying to use mobile payments or credit cards whenever possible.
• Apps: Download Google Maps and a transit guide app for your convenience.

Knowledge Preparation

• Yayoi Period: Equivalent to our Western Han Dynasty, during this period, Japan began to cultivate rice and was divided into many small states collectively known as “Wa”.

• Kofun Period: Lasting until our Sui Dynasty, Japan started using Chinese characters and was influenced by Confucianism and Buddhism. Prince Shōtoku followed China’s example and established a centralized state centered around the emperor.

• Asuka Period: Centered around the Asuka region in southern Nara, the “Taika Reforms” laid the foundation for Japan’s feudal landownership system, leading to a feudal society. From this period, Japan sent students and monks to China to study politics, law, culture, and Buddhism. In 702 AD, Japan notified China’s Tang Dynasty of its country name “Nihon” and its ruler as “Tenno” (Emperor).

• Nara Period: In 710 AD, Japan’s capital was established in Heijō-kyō, modeled after China’s Tang Dynasty capital Chang’an. In 794 AD, the capital was moved to Heian-kyō, now known as Kyoto. In 894 AD, Japan stopped heavily absorbing Chinese culture, and developed hiragana and katakana scripts, giving birth to literary works like “The Tale of Genji”.

• Kamakura Period: Starting in 1192, Minamoto no Yoritomo was appointed as the shogun and established the first shogunate in Kamakura.

• Azuchi-Momoyama Period: Starting in 1573 and led by Oda Nobunaga, this period ended with his death in the Honnō-ji Incident. Toyotomi Hideyoshi unified Japan in 1590 and ruled for 30 years, known as the Azuchi-Momoyama Period.

• Edo Period: Starting in 1603, the Tokugawa shogunate was established by Tokugawa Ieyasu, ruling for 260 years and reaching the pinnacle of Japan’s feudal society.

• Meiji Era: Beginning in 1868, the Meiji Restoration overthrew the Tokugawa shogunate and established a new government centered around the emperor, entering a capitalist society. In 1869, Emperor Meiji moved the capital to Tokyo, implementing the “Datsu-A Ron” policy of “leaving Asia and joining Europe”. In 1894, Japan fought the First Sino-Japanese War with China, which ended with the signing of the Treaty of Shimonoseki in 1895.

• Taisho Era: Starting in 1912, during Emperor Taisho’s reign, this period includes World War I and the Treaty of Versailles. Japan obtained Shandong from Germany, directly leading to China’s “May Fourth Movement”.

• Showa Era: Beginning in 1926, during Emperor Showa’s reign, this period includes World War II, bringing great disaster and suffering to Asian people. After the war, Japan adopted a constitutional monarchy and signed the Treaty of Peace and Friendship with China in 1978.

• Heisei Era: Starting in 1989, this was Japan’s “Lost 30 Years” with a decline in international status and almost zero economic growth. In 2010, Japan’s GDP surpassed Japan to become the world’s second-largest economy, entering a “low-growth society”. However, during this period, the Treaty of Peace and Friendship with China was signed.

• Reiwa Era: Beginning in 2019, it is currently the fifth year of the Reiwa era (2023).

Day 1 - Jul. 18 - Tue - Hangzhou - Osaka - Wakayama

• We took a flight at 8:15 am, so the day before, we arranged for a car since we needed to reach the airport at least two hours before Check-In. Today’s flight didn’t have too many passengers, so the airline changed to a smaller aircraft, which gave us the illusion that there wouldn’t be many Chinese people in Japan.
• After landing, we queued up to buy an Icoca card and exchange for the Wide Area 5-Day JR Pass, useing next day as the start date. We planned to use the pass from the second day because the first day was just for visiting Wakayama, which is relatively close. So, we wanted to use the 5-day pass to cover the tickets to Kyoto on the sixth day, which turned out to be a wise choice since we had more occasions to use JR in Kyoto compared to Wakayama. The main reason we got the pass was for the round trip to Shirahama from Wakayama using the Kuroshio limited express reserved seat, so we didn’t need to activate the card on the first day.
• Initially, we planned to follow our previous travel experience to buy discounted tickets for the Kaiyukan Aquarium at the Tourist Information in the airport. However, when we reached the window, we found out that this service had been suspended since the end of June, which was just a little over half a month ago. Anyway, tickets can be purchased online or at the ticket counter, so not a big deal.

  When purchasing the Kaiyukan Aquarium ticket, make sure to check the age restrictions for children’s half-price tickets, as they may include high school students.

• With airport matters settled, we headed to Rinku Town Outlets. Here, you can find palm trees, blue skies, and various brand discount stores. Rinku Town is just one stop away from Kansai International Airport, making it an ideal first stop upon arriving in Osaka or the last attraction before a long flight. The most attractive feature of this place is its retail shops, offering a wide variety of brand outlets, including Adidas, Kate Spade, The North Face, and more. The outdoor beach is also a great place to spend time before or after a flight. You can find the guide map of Rinku Town here. Almost every train leaving Kansai Airport passes through Rinku Town, so you can simply swipe your Icoca card to check it out.
• There were plenty of shops in Rinku Town, resembling the style of American outlets. The areas were distributed in different directions at the intersection, and it was quite crowded, especially considering the scorching weather. We initially thought about shopping and then enjoying the scenery by the seaside, but in reality, we just wanted to stay in places with air conditioning.
• After strolling around until four or five in the evening, we headed to the JR station to catch the next train to Wakayama. On the way, we saw very young kids carrying school bags and heading to school with their classmates, without any grandparents or parents accompanying them. Hm…
• By the time we arrived in Wakayama, it was already quite late. The hotel was 1.7 kilometers away from the station, and though there were many buses, it was our first day, and we hadn’t quite gotten used to using public transportation in Japan yet. So, we decided to walk to the hotel. After experiencing this refreshing walk while dragging our luggage, we decided to opt for a taxi for transportation over such distances in the rest journey.
• Wakayama ramen is a common and beloved local delicacy. Residents refer to it as “Chinese noodles,” and it has been popular since before World War II when people used to enjoy it at outdoor stalls. Nowadays, it is served in indoor restaurants, and you can find it all over the city. Wakayama ramen mainly uses two types of broth: soy sauce-based and pork bone soy sauce-based. Since Wakayama is the birthplace of Japanese soy sauce, it’s no surprise that the broth is mainly soy sauce-based. However, many modern restaurants also offer their own unique broths for Wakayama ramen. Try a few and find your favorite! Your trip to Wakayama won’t be complete without tasting a bowl of this soulful local delicacy.
• As we were in Wakayama, it was a must to try their ramen. I specially ordered a bowl of tonkotsu ramen topped with lots of green onions, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Though it was a bit heavier than expected, the flavor was incredibly delicious.

Recommended Restaurant: Ramen Marui - This is a small eatery with only two young staff members, but the business was quite good. We arrived late, but during our meal, several local customers came in. Recommended Hotel: Wakayama Daiwa Roynet Hotel - The rooms were not large, but the self-service system was smooth, and it was an economical choice, suitable for a short stay.

Purchasing ICOCA Card from the Vending Machine

If you don’t want to stand in long queues at the JR ticket counter, you can choose to buy an ICOCA card from the green automated vending machines.

Follow these steps to purchase an ICOCA card:

Step 1. Click on the option “ICOCAを買う” (Buy ICOCA) at the top left corner to initiate the purchase.

Step 2. You’ll be presented with only one option for a JPY 2,000 card, which includes a JPY 500 deposit and JPY 1,500 in stored value.

Step 3. Insert JPY 2,000 (you can actually insert two banknotes simultaneously, no need to insert them one by one).

Step 4. The machine will ask if you need a receipt. The options are located at the bottom right corner. Choose the left option for a receipt or the right option to skip it.

Step 5. Congratulations! You’ve successfully purchased an ICOCA card!

Not all JR stations have these vending machines, so it’s recommended to purchase one in advance at Kansai Airport. If you need to buy an ICOCA card for a child, you will have to visit a staffed counter as this option is not available at the vending machines.

Transportation

• Route: Take the JR Kansai Airport Line to Hineno, then transfer to the Kuroshio train in the direction of Shirahama and get off at Shirahama station.
• Fare: According to Google search, the one-way fare is 5450 yen. If you plan to visit Nara and Kyoto later in your itinerary, it might be worth considering purchasing the Kansai-Hokuriku Area JR Pass, which covers five days and is already equivalent to the round-trip fare.
• Kansai-Hokuriku Area JR Pass
• Kansai Airport - JR Kansai Airport Line - Hineno - JR Sakurajima Line - Wakayama (approximately 1.5 hours)

The limited express trains “KUROSHIO,” “KOUNOTORI,” “KINOSAKI,” “HASHIDATE,” and “MAIZURU” all have reserved seating (designated seats) only. There are no unreserved seats (free seating) available. Be sure to make a reservation for a designated seat before boarding. If you haven’t reserved a designated seat before boarding, an additional fee for the designated seat on the limited express will be charged.

Recommended Attractions (Due to the late arrival, these attractions couldn’t be visited this time.)

• Kuroshio Market: Located within the Wakayama Marina City in Japan, Kuroshio Market is a popular place for locals to buy fresh seafood. The Wakayama Marina City is a 49-hectare artificial island, and the market offers a wide selection of local sake and souvenirs. Kuroshio Market is also known as the “Tuna Capital” as it pays tribute to the Pacific bluefin tuna caught in the area. Visitors can enjoy various tuna dishes, including sashimi, whole cuts, and sushi. In recent years, more travel agencies have been organizing tours to the market, allowing visitors not only to purchase fresh fish but also to witness the daily tuna dissection shows held at 11 am, 12:30 pm, and 3 pm. The dissected tunas typically weigh between 45-50kg.

• Porto Europa: Just across the street from the market, you’ll find Porto Europa, a Mediterranean-style shopping area. It features an amusement park, dining options, souvenirs, and beautifully replicated Italian fishing villages, French towns, and Spanish castles. Children will be thrilled to ride various roller coasters and enjoy entertainment facilities. The best part is that admission to Porto Europa is free, allowing visitors to peacefully stroll by the seaside in an environment filled with the charm of old Europe.

Day 2 - Jul. 19 - Wed - Wakayama - Shirahama

Picture by Kentaro Toma on Unsplash

• The fastest way to get from Wakayama to Shirahama is by taking the Kuroshio Limited Express, choosing reserved seats. Each Wide Area Pass for five days includes six reserved seat coupons, which we mostly used for the Kuroshio Limited Express. Most of the other trains later on were unreserved, so no need for reservations.
• Upon arriving in Shirahama, we purchased the Shirahama One-Day Pass from the JR station, which allowed us to ride all day with few saving(not much). It’s quite convenient by just showing the pass to the bus driver when getting off. We decided to take the routes from far to near, starting with Sandanbeki, though it’s not as grand as the cliffs in New Zealand.
• Next, we took a bus to Senjojiki, and finally, we got to enjoy some nice coastal views here. The area was open, and we could feel the sea breeze. We had a delightful meal with a view of the Pacific Ocean in a restaurant on the cliff. The food was average, but the scenery made up for it.
• After enjoying Senjojiki, it was almost time for hotel check-in. Once we got to the hotel, the room decoration impressed us, but what we loved more was Shirahama Beach just 50 meters away. The sand was fine and white, and the water was crystal clear. The kids had a successful swim in the Pacific Ocean and played with the waves for a long time.
• The next stop was the Toretore Seafood Market. We arrived at the market’s opening time, but to our surprise, the reservation for the BBQ outside ended two hours earlier than the seafood market’s closing time. This meant that if we bought fresh seafood, we would have to cook it ourselves or find another place. We had no choice but to switch to a nearby BBQ restaurant, as we still had the famous Kuromon Market in Osaka waiting for us the next day.
• The BBQ restaurant was right next to the hotel, and it seemed like the majority of the customers were Chinese tourists. It felt like only one elderly lady was busy serving to everyone, but since BBQ was self-service, it wasn’t too much of a hassle. After dinner, we bought some items from the nearby convenience store, FamilyMart, and returned to the hotel to relax in the onsen.

Recommended hotel: Musashi. The service was top-notch from the moment we entered. Instead of asking anything else, they immediately told us where the drinks were and served us two glasses. When confirming our order, they even brought out four tequila shot glasses filled with mixed juice for us to drink. It felt like we were there to buy a house. The rooms were not large, but they were all traditional Japanese style, and the service was excellent. At night, we also tried their basic large onsen, which was quite good. If you have time, you can reserve various other types of onsen pools.

Shirahama

Shirahama Town is an administrative division located along the southern coast of Wakayama Prefecture, Japan. Within its boundaries lies Shirahama Onsen, one of Japan’s three ancient hot springs and a famous hot spring area in Wakayama Prefecture. To distinguish it from other places with the same name, it is usually referred to as Nanki Shirahama. The area has a warm climate, and during the summer, visitors can enjoy views of tropical fish in the sea from the Shirahama Sea Tower or aboard a Shirahama Underwater Sightseeing Boat. Additionally, the nearby Shirahama Onsen area includes the Tsubaki Onsen in Nanki Shirahama Onsen and Shirahama Onsen Okuyunoshima. Shirahama Town is also famous for its white sandy beach, Shirarahama, as well as scenic coastal features such as Engetsu Island, Senjojiki, and Sandanbeki, which have been designated as national scenic spots. Visitors can also explore Adventure World, a comprehensive amusement park that combines a wildlife park, aquarium, and amusement facilities. Other attractions include the Shirahama Energy Land, a science and education-themed park, and the Kyoto University Shirahama Aquarium, which attract many tourists, including those from the Kinki region.

References

• Shirahama Meiko Bus Route Map
• Conan Episode 255 - Mysterious Journey in Nanki Shirahama

picture by Tom Chen in Unsplash

Day 3 - Jul. 20 - Thu - Shirahama - Kuromon Market - Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan

• Taking a taxi from the hotel to JR Shirahama Station costs only 700 yen. At the station, the staff helped us reserve reserved seats for our trip to Osaka. Japan’s train lines are very complex, but as long as you carefully observe and use Google Maps, you won’t go wrong. All the information is either on screens or on the ground. By the end of the trip, my kids had already grasped the basics of Japan’s transportation system.
• Once we arrived in Osaka, we first went to the hotel to drop off our luggage. The hotel is located in Moriguchi City, and both the subway and private railways are accessible. If you plan to visit several places in one day, I recommend getting the Osaka Subway One-Day Pass to save money. Please note that ticket machines only accept cash, and I’m not sure if credit cards are accepted, but my magnetic stripe card didn’t work.
• Since Kuromon Market closes at 5:00 PM, and Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan is open until 8:00 PM, we went directly to Kuromon Market after returning from Shirahama. The subway took us there quickly, and it was bustling, a paradise for foodies.
• As soon as we entered, we lined up for a cup of Takahashi Shokuhin’s soy milk. There were too many people in line, and by the time it was our turn, they had run out of stock for the day. We settled for a fresh cup of soy milk instead, and it was indeed smooth and creamy, living up to its reputation. If you enjoy drinking soy milk, this place is a must-visit.
• The seafood feast that we couldn’t have the previous day was finally fulfilled at Kuromon Sanpei. The restaurant was packed with customers speaking various accents, including Taiwanese, Cantonese, Shanghainese, Sichuanese, and more.
• Kuromon Market is known for its seafood, with various sushi shops, dessert stalls, and barbecue options available. There are also some scattered drugstores. It’s a place where you can spend a lot of time, but since we were going to Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, we had to leave after eating.
• The Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, which I visited eight years ago, left a deep impression on me, especially the opportunity to touch the devil fish with my own hands. You’ll take an escalator to the 8th floor and then go down in a spiral, with you in the middle and the fishes on the outer circle. It gives you a sense of interacting with different creatures at different levels of the ocean, including the flagship species - whale sharks.
• The aquarium houses a wide variety of marine life from the Pacific Rim region (from the Great Barrier Reef to the Arctic). It’s an ideal place to experience the wonders of the ocean. The aquarium has 620 species and 30,000 creatures, and each large viewing area accurately recreates different Pacific habitats and underwater ecologies. Information about the natural habitats of the exhibited creatures is also displayed.
• Each animal zone has a stamp for visitors to collect as souvenirs. The advantage is that it piques the children’s interest, but the downside is that they are more focused on finding stamps and forget about the specific appearance of the creatures.

Since we need to get up early tomorrow to go to Universal Studios, we have to prepare breakfast for the next day in advance.

References

⛩ Kuromon Market is located in Nipponbashi, bustling in Osaka’s Chuo Ward. At the end of the Meiji period, there was a temple called Enmyoji in Nipponbashi 2-chome, so it was called “Enmyoji Market.” Later, because of the black gate (Kuromon) located to the north and east of Enmyoji, it was named “Kuromon Market.” However, Enmyoji was destroyed by a fire in Meiji 45 (1912), so it no longer exists, but the name “Kuromon Market” has been passed down to this day. Little Red Book

• Recommended Stores
  • Takahashi Shokuhin Soy Milk: Established in 93 years, known as the “Number One Soy Milk in Kansai.” Cup: 100 yen 💴, Bottle: 300 yen 💴. The soy milk has a rich flavor, not overly sweet, leaving a lingering taste of richness. Highly recommended! 👍👍
  • Kuromon Sanpei: Offers various specialty snacks. Even after eating ramen, you’ll still feel satisfied. Next time, make sure to save some space for Kuromon Sanpei. The sea urchin is fresh and sweet, melting in your mouth instantly. Grilled prawns are crispy and fragrant.
  • Ishibashi: This store sells “Oden” 🍢 and is considered one of the delicious delicacies in Kuromon Market. Established for 44 years, they have maintained traditional brewing techniques, and the broth is delicious, making the ingredients flavorful. The best part is the friendly prices. We recommend trying the 10-yen “Oden” to get a taste!
  • Kurogane: If you want to eat “Sashimi” 🍣, you must visit this store! Their must-try dish is the blackfin tuna belly. The texture is smooth, with rich oil, and has a delightful sweet taste.
  • Uofuku: Grilled scallops are a must-try delicacy in Kuromon Market. After trying them, I fell in love with this place. They display many scallops at the storefront, and you can choose and have them grilled on the spot. The freshly grilled large scallops are juicy and succulent, bursting with satisfaction upon the first bite.
  • Genpin: Known for serving fugu (blowfish) meat 🐡🐡. They have 88 branches in Japan, and over 900,000 visitors come annually. Whether it’s fugu sashimi, hotpot 🍲, or deep-fried fugu, they are all delicious!

Day 4 - Jul. 21 - Fri - Universal Studios Osaka

• There’s not much to say, from the moment we got out of the subway, I knew it was going to be an exhausting day. The overwhelming crowd guaranteed it would be a leg-breaking day.
• However, no matter what, we first went to experience the Flying Dinosaur ride, which saved us quite a bit of time. Also, I have to say the street parade was fantastic, with lively interactions with the audience. You can find the parade route online, but if all else fails, just look for crowds gathering along the roadside; that means the parade is coming.
• Mario’s merchandising ability is incredibly strong; the wristbands cost 2400 yen each. If you don’t buy it, there are almost no rides left to enjoy. Watching other kids with the wristbands bump into the gold coins box and hearing the sound they make, you’d feel quite out of place if you try to do it without a wristband.
• Anyway, we spent the whole day from morning till the park’s closing time, playing and having fun.

Universal Studios Osaka Guide

• [Plan A] — First, draw a ticket (if you get 2-3 PM slot) — Jurassic Park — Minions — Spider-Man — Parade (lunch) — Waterworld — Mario — Harry Potter — Doraemon (dinner) — Hollywood
• [Plan B] — First, draw a ticket (if you get 10-11 AM slot) — Hollywood — Harry Potter — Mario — Parade (lunch) — Spider-Man — Minions — Jurassic Park — Waterworld — Doraemon (dinner)

08:00 - Enter the park and bind the tickets. It’s best to draw a Mario timed entry ticket for 2-3 PM.

• NO LIMIT! Parade at 11:00 Very lively and highly interactive; strongly recommended
• Future Waterworld show with three time slots. If you want to get close to the water splash, sit in the front, especially the blue zone, and you’ll end up soaking wet when you leave.
  • 12:00
  • 13:30
  • 15:00
• Doraemon’s welcome party (didn’t experience, no comment)
  • 12:40
  • 14:20
  • 15:20
  • 17:00
  • 18:00

• Harry Potter 4D Forbidden Journey. Realistic naked-eye 3D, bringing magical scenes from the movies to life, riding on a mine cart and experiencing the magic of Quidditch. (Afternoon is less crowded and no need for a timed entry ticket. Big hit with our kids!)

• Minion Park, Minion Freeze Ray Sliders ride. Takes you back to your childhood, riding a roller coaster through Gru’s mansion and laboratory, feeling like one of the Minions! (The queue was too long; we didn’t play.)

• Mario Land, the world of Nintendo Switch. Various interactive brick blocks, scenery, and collecting coins… Full of fun experiences. (Our kids’ favorite, waited in various queues, but you need to buy a 2400 yen wristband to enjoy the games.)

• Jurassic Park has two attractions: 1. Ride the Rapids (River Adventure). Wear a raincoat, and you’ll be on an adventure boat entering the experimental zone of the “resurrected dinosaurs.” The abandoned lab looks incredibly real, and you’ll be scared at some moments! Suddenly finding yourself a “prey” of the Tyrannosaurus rex! The drop from 25.9 meters into the water is thrilling! (We played close to evening and it only took 20 minutes.)

• Flying Dinosaur: Reportedly the world’s longest and highest vertical roller coaster: 38 meters for the first drop and a 1124-meter-long track. The Flying Dinosaur is an expansion project in the Jurassic Park themed area of USJ. The coaster, shaped like a pterosaur, takes visitors on a flight around Jurassic Park, with elements like inverted flips, cobra rolls, heartline rolls, and more, making it the most thrilling ride at USJ with constant screams! (Thrilling ride!)

• Hollywood Dream - The Ride. Roller coaster with a great sense of weightlessness. (Just at the entrance, constant screams from the queue.)

Tips for visiting:

1. You cannot bring food or drinks into Universal Studios; each person is allowed one 500ml water bottle, so bring your own water bottle.
2. It is recommended to arrive one hour before the park opens to be at the front of the line and enter the park early.
3. Download the USJ APP and change your phone’s region to Taiwan. The APP can be converted to Chinese, and it can show real-time maps and wait times for attractions, very useful!
4. Be sure to draw timed entry tickets for Mario and Harry Potter, as you won’t be able to enter these two attractions without a reservation.
5. Ultimate strategy - Single Rider! Entering as a single rider allows you to move quickly. If you can accept it, this method will help you experience the whole park!

References

Summary of blood and tears experience at Universal Studios Osaka: Don’t buy Express Pass or early entry tickets. How to ride most of the popular attractions. Wake up early. The official opening time is 9 AM, but they started letting people in around 8:15 AM. If you can wake up early, definitely do so. At around 8:15 AM, you don’t need a timed entry ticket for the Mario area. - Xiaohongshu

1. On that Friday, the park opened at 8:15 AM, but the official time was 9:00 AM. They open the park early.
2. Don’t bother queuing; bring a cushion or paper and have breakfast while sitting on the ground. It is recommended to buy some food at the convenience store the night before because you cannot eat on public transport in Japan, and you cannot bring food or drinks into Universal Studios. Each person can bring one 500ml water bottle into the park. Have breakfast outside to solve all the food issues.
3. Choose a queue with a security gate for faster machine inspection. Others are manual inspections.
4. When you arrive in the morning, take a picture of the globe; there are not many people there, and it only takes a few minutes. Don’t rush during those few minutes. At night, it will be dark, and you won’t be able to take a picture of the globe, and there are many people. - Xiaohongshu Recommended attractions: Mario Kart (didn’t play, waiting time 120 minutes, which exceeded the waiting limit), Spider-Man 4D movie, Harry Potter 4D movie, Flying Dinosaur roller coaster.

Official Website

Day 5 - Jul.22 - Sat - Osaka - Nara Todai-ji Temple - Kasuga Grand Shrine - Wakakusayama

• In the morning, we used the Kansai Wide Area 5-day pass to take the JR train from Osaka to Nara. After getting off at the station, we took a bus to Todai-ji Temple. As soon as we entered the Nara Park area, we could see deer everywhere. They were so numerous and could be found everywhere. We got off at the south gate of Todai-ji Temple and bought some deer crackers for 200 yen to interact with the native deer. However, don’t let them see you take the crackers out of your pocket, as they might chase after you or even bump into you (I experienced this personally). But the deer are quite gentle when eating the crackers, so there’s no need to worry too much.

• Todai-ji Temple is designated as a National Treasure of Japan and is also the world’s largest wooden structure. Nara was once the capital of Japan, and now it is a popular tourist city. Todai-ji Temple was originally built during the Nara period (710-784). This temple, along with other important cultural and historical assets in the city, has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site under the title “Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara.”

• At Todai-ji Temple, you can see the prosperous spread of Buddhism worldwide, each region developing its own unique characteristics. As soon as you enter the main hall, you are greeted by the majestic Great Buddha statue. The official name of the Great Buddha is “Rushana Buddha,” revered as the main deity of the Avatamsaka Sutra, meaning the illuminating Buddha or the shining Buddha. The Great Buddha is 15 meters high and its face is 5 meters long. It is said that approximately 2 out of every 1 people in the nation at that time, totaling about 2.6 million people, participated in the construction of the statue. Despite undergoing multiple repairs over the years, the lotus pedestal and abdomen still retain the appearance of the Nara period. From the front, left side, and right side, you can clearly admire and pay respects to the Great Buddha.

• Inside Todai-ji Temple, my favorite part is the Four Heavenly Kings statues. Passing through the entrance of the Great Buddha Hall and walking along the west side approach, you will reach the “Kaidanin.” This hall, established by the monk Ganjin, houses the Four Heavenly Kings statues, considered the greatest masterpieces created during the Nara period. The Four Heavenly Kings are the guardian deities positioned at the four corners of the hall, protecting the east, south, west, and north. Each deity stands on a demon and gazes into the distance. The rich expressions, muscular bodies, and folds of the garments are all meticulously carved, which is usually difficult to achieve in wooden sculptures. Among the four statues, the handsome face of the Guardian of the West (Broad-Eyed Heavenly King) is particularly popular among visitors.

• Speaking of Todai-ji Temple, I must mention Gyoki. If you walk to Nara Station on the Kintetsu Line, you will also see a statue of a monk standing in a fountain; that’s Gyoki. Gyoki (668-749 AD) was a monk during the Nara period. In an era when the government prohibited monks from preaching to the general public, Gyoki defied the ban and widely spread Buddhism to the common people and aristocrats, gaining great respect. In addition to establishing many temples and monasteries, he also engaged in various social activities, such as building ponds (15), ditches and moats (9), bridges (6), and providing alms houses (9) for the poor. He was appointed as the head of Todai-ji Temple and was considered one of the “Four Saints” of the temple. He is revered as the “Great Monk Gyoki” or “Bodhisattva Gyoki.”

• After leaving Todai-ji Temple, we followed the side road to enter the approach to Kasuga Grand Shrine. There are also deer leisurely wandering around here, but compared to the “Sociable” deer near Todai-ji Temple, the deer here are relatively more reserved. The constant night lanterns on both sides of the approach make the whole shrine appear very solemn. It is one of the most sacred religious places in Japan. The shrine enshrines multiple deities, but due to the large number of tourists and lively scenes, the whole shrine feels more like a relaxed amusement park.

• After leaving the shrine, we headed to the best spot to view the deer, Mount Wakakusa(Wakakusayama). It’s not far, just a small hill, but from here, you can get a panoramic view of Nara. Along with the lush green grass and the leisurely deer, it’s truly a beautiful scene.

picture from Sarasak in Unsplash

Day 6 - Jul.23 - Sun - Nara - Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine - Sannenzaka - Hogonji Temple

• Today is the last day of the travel pass, and we traveled from Nara to Kyoto. Looking back on my visit to Kyoto in 2015, besides enjoying the Noh performance at Hana no Mai, another unforgettable experience was visiting Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine with its thousands of vermilion torii gates. Although it’s a little far from the city center, walking among the torii gates gives a unique sense of solemnity. However, this time, the shrine was crowded to the point where it can be described as “a sea of people.” It’s been 8 years, and I wonder what has happened to make it so challenging to capture a photo without any people in the torii gates.

• Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine is the main shrine of over 30,000 Inari shrines scattered throughout Japan. It is also one of the oldest shrines in Kyoto. The shrine was built in the 8th century and mainly enshrines various Inari gods, with Ukanomitama-no-kami as the head. Inari gods are deities of agriculture and business, and visitors come here to pray for bountiful crops, prosperous businesses, and safe travels. It is one of the most popular shrines in the Kyoto area.

• At the entrance of Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine stands the Otorii gate, donated by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1589. Behind it are the main hall and other buildings of the shrine. Inside the shrine, you can find various fox stone statues, as foxes are considered messengers of the deity Inari. The fox-faced Ema is a unique feature here. One of the most famous attractions is the dense row of vermillion “Senbon Torii” gates behind the main hall, which is one of Kyoto’s most representative sights and has appeared in the movie “Memoirs of a Geisha.” Hundreds of vermilion torii gates form a path leading to the top of Mount Inari, with dozens of fox stone statues scattered along the way.

• Last time, I didn’t climb Mount Inari. This time, I braved the scorching sun and walked for a while to make up for the regret. From the top of Mount Inari, you can see the entire Kyoto, but the weather was extremely hot, and the one-way trip to the mountaintop takes about 40 minutes. I had to make a compromise and only walked to a 20-minute high point to overlook Kyoto.

• Feeling quite hot and crowded, which affected the viewing experience, we decided to head back to Kyoto early. The JR Inari Station is right at the entrance of the shrine, which is very convenient. As we returned to Kyoto early, we decided to stroll around Sannenzaka, where there are many quaint buildings and shops. When we arrived at Hogonji Temple, we saw the sunset, and we enjoyed the beautiful view. The shops displayed various Omamori charms as this whole July, Kyoto was immersed in the Gion Matsuri festival. This is also why we chose July 24th for Kyoto in our itinerary, and it proved to be well worth it.

Day 7 - Jul.24 - Mon - Kyoto Gion Matsuri - Tokyo

• This is the first Gion Matsuri after the pandemic hiatus of three years, so the preparations are said to be very thorough. Yasaka Shrine is the focus of the Hoko floats procession, and there will also be performances arranged inside the shrine after the parade. Normally, these performances require an additional fee to watch, but during the festival, they are open to the public. We arrived at Yasaka Shrine before 9 o’clock, and the steps at the entrance were almost full of people. This is an ideal viewing spot for the flower umbrella procession.

• Gion Matsuri is Kyoto’s largest summer festival, held at Yasaka Shrine for an entire month. It is not only one of Kyoto’s three major festivals (Gion Matsuri, Jidai Matsuri, and Aoi Matsuri) but also one of Japan’s three major festivals, along with Tenjin Matsuri in Osaka and Kanda Matsuri in Tokyo! During the Heian period of Japan (around the 9th century), the population rapidly increased, and plagues broke out. Due to the lack of medical knowledge, people believed that the plague was caused by evil spirits. To appease the plague, Kyoto, the capital city at the time, began to hold Gion Matsuri at Yasaka Shrine, and the plague was miraculously subdued. Originally, Gion Matsuri was only held during times of plague, but it became an annual event in the 10th century.

• After watching the Gion Matsuri flower umbrella procession and some performances, we headed to Edo - Tokyo. The kids were excited to experience the Shinkansen (bullet train) for the first time. Before heading to Tokyo, remember to use up the money in the Icoca card and then get a refund (if not used up, there will be a handling fee of 220 yen, unless the remaining balance is less than that amount). This is because in East Japan, you’ll need to get a Suica card.

• The place to return the card at Kyoto Station is on the second floor at the JR Ticket Office, so there was a long line. If you only need to buy Shinkansen tickets, it’s faster to use the first floor ticket window.

• Riding the beloved Shinkansen, we traveled from west to east through Japan to the mega-city - Tokyo. As we stepped out of the station, the bustling scene of Tokyo overwhelmed us. Towering buildings were everywhere, truly representing Tokyo. The taxi queue at the station was not too long, and the ride to the hotel allowed us to enjoy the view of Tokyo.

• Upon entering Tokyo, we were greeted by the bustling cityscape. However, since we arrived quite late, we went straight to our accommodation. The original options were Akihabara and Ginza, but we didn’t go there this time. It’s said that they are not as lively as Shinjuku, and they are more for anime and manga lovers, not what we were looking for.

Day 8 - Jul.25 - Tue - Senso-ji Temple - University of Tokyo - Tokyo Ueno Park - Katsushika Noryo Hanabi Taikai (Katsushika Summer Fireworks Festival)

• Our accommodation was very close to Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, so our first stop in Tokyo was at the Kaminarimon Gate. This is a must-visit spot in Tokyo. The full name of Kaminarimon Gate is Fushin Raijinmon, which refers to the gods of wind and thunder. The two deities are represented on each side of the gate’s large lantern. The lantern of Kaminarimon Gate is 3.9 meters high, with a diameter of 3.3 meters, and weighs 700 kg. The frame of the lantern is made of bamboo from the Tango region in Kyoto, and the washi paper used for the outer covering is made from nearly 300 sheets. This washi paper is produced from the Buntan plant (a mulberry family plant) in Fukui Prefecture, making it a 100% Japanese-made lantern. Since 1971, the lantern has been produced by Takahashi Chochin in Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, and a new set of lanterns is made about every ten years.

• Kaminarimon Gate has a deep connection with the Japanese electronics company “Panasonic.” It all dates back to 1960 when the founder of Panasonic, Konosuke Matsushita, was suffering from illness. He visited Senso-ji Temple to pray for good health. After his health improved, he offered a gate and a large lantern, which is what we now see as Kaminarimon Gate. To continue this bond, the names of Konosuke Matsushita and his company, Panasonic, are still engraved under the large lantern.

• To get to the University of Tokyo from Asakusa, we took the subway. Before setting off, we bought Suica cards, which function similarly to Icoca cards. However, JR is currently promoting the Welcome Suica, a red cherry blossom card. It looks more beautiful and does not require a deposit. It can also be automatically purchased and refunded through machines. The only condition is to use up the money, otherwise, no refund will be given. To buy a child’s card, we had to go to a larger JR station like Ueno. The queue here was comparable to the one at Kansai Airport…

• The University of Tokyo (Tokyo University), also known as Todai, is a national comprehensive research university in Tokyo, and it is recognized as the highest institute of learning in Japan. Its history dates back to 1877 when it was established as the first modern university under the new education system in Japan. It was formed from the merger of Tokyo Kaisei School and Tokyo Medical School, both founded during the end of the Edo period. In 1886, it was renamed as “Imperial University,” and in 1897, it became “Tokyo Imperial University.” In 1947, it was renamed to its current name, the University of Tokyo. The University of Tokyo has three campuses, each with different educational and research focuses. The Hongo Campus implements a general education curriculum, the Komaba Campus provides specialized education, and the Kashiwa Campus mainly offers graduate courses.

• The University of Tokyo enjoys a high reputation in the academic world. As of October 9, 2018, ten faculty members and alumni of the University of Tokyo have been awarded the Nobel Prize. Additionally, 11 individuals who received their degrees from the University of Tokyo and 16 individuals associated with the university have become Nobel laureates. According to the QS World University Rankings 2021, the University of Tokyo ranks first in Japan, sixth in Asia, and 24th in the world. As of 2018, 16 alumni of the University of Tokyo have served as Prime Ministers of Japan, accounting for a quarter of all Prime Ministers in Japanese history. Furthermore, ten faculty members and alumni of the university have been awarded the Nobel Prize. In addition to that, two non-alumni Ph.D. recipients have also received the Nobel Prize: Shinichiro Tomonaga (Physics, 1965) and Satoshi Ōmura (Medicine, 2015). Moreover, alumni of the University of Tokyo include renowned writers Yasunari Kawabata (Literature, 1968) and Kenzaburō Ōe (Literature, 1994), with Kawabata receiving one of Japan’s highest literary awards. The university’s alumni also include a Fields Medalist, as well as three Pritzker Architecture Prize laureates. Additionally, five alumni of the University of Tokyo have become astronauts, participating in space missions.

• Tokyo University and Ueno Park are only separated by a street, making the area very peaceful. The Central Cafeteria is located below the Yasuda Auditorium. Photography inside the cafeteria is prohibited, and staff members would intervene if anyone tries to take photos. We often saw groups of young students visiting the university for educational purposes. Near the restaurant’s exit, there is a small shop where you can buy some University of Tokyo souvenirs.

• After exploring the University of Tokyo, we took a bus from within the campus to Ueno Park. In addition to being a public recreational area for the general public, the park is also surrounded by various museums and art galleries, making it a place for leisure and increasing knowledge and aesthetics, a win-win situation. We chose the Earth Museum in the National Museum of Nature and Science. The admission fee for students and adults is reasonable. Inside the museum, there was a 360-degree movie, which had multilingual receivers including Chinese, Korean, and English. The staff also explained in detail how to use the receivers. Afterwards, we entered the main exhibition of the Earth Museum, which is spread over three floors, each with a different focus. The museum covers topics from nature to technological advancements. There were many interactive facilities in the technology section, which piqued the interest of the kids.

• Evening: Katsushika Noryo Hanabi Taikai (Katsushika Summer Fireworks Festival). This was something we had researched beforehand. The Katsushika area is relatively remote, so there are fewer people. However, the reality slapped us hard. The small station of Kanamachi was jammed with people exiting, and even during that time, vehicles kept arriving to drop off passengers. This congestion was probably unprecedented for this small station. Fortunately, everyone followed the rules and moved slowly under the guidance of station staff, otherwise, there could have been safety issues with such a large crowd.

• Before watching the fireworks display, we ate at a dumpling shop near the station. The taste was good, and they were said to rank high on the handmade dumpling list. We were stuffed after the meal. Highly recommended!!

Day 9 - Jul.26 - Wed - Tokyo - Kamakura

• In the morning, we departed from Asakusa, Tokyo, and headed to Kamakura. Upon arrival at Kamakura Station, we decided to visit Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. Tsurugaoka Hachimangu is one of the most important shrines dedicated to the Shinto gods of warriors and the guardian deity of the Minamoto clan, Hachiman. In 1063, Minamoto no Yoriyoshi, the head of the Minamoto clan, constructed Tsurugaoka Hachimangu as a token of gratitude for the gods’ blessings after achieving victory. Later, his son Minamoto no Yoshiie moved to Kamakura, which eventually became the de facto capital during the Kamakura shogunate (1192-1333). In 1180, the shrine was relocated to Kamakura by Minamoto no Yoritomo, who shifted the center of power from Kyoto to the east and established the Kamakura shogunate, which lasted until 1868.

• If you want to go to the seaside, you can visit Yuigahama Beach. Kamakura has three beaches: Yuigahama, Zaimokuza, and Koshigoe. Among them, Yuigahama Beach is the most convenient to reach. It’s a 15-minute walk from Kamakura Station. You can also take the Enoshima Electric Railway Line and get off at either Wadazuka Station, Yuigahama Station, or Enoshima Station, then walk for about 5 minutes to reach the beach. While lying on the beach, you can enjoy a view of Mount Fuji.

• The highlight of our visit to Kamakura was, of course, going to Kamakura High School in front of the station, the filming location of the basketball anime “Slam Dunk.” We walked up the hill to Kanagawa Prefectural Kamakura High School. This place also holds memories of Akanarika (played by Naomi Suzuki) during her student days.

• In the afternoon, we strolled along Komachi Street, a pedestrian shopping street, to buy some souvenirs. Komachi Street is a unique modern district in the heart of this ancient city. It is filled with fashionable boutiques and offers various types of delicious food, attracting visitors year-round. Many restaurants in Komachi Street serve shirasu (whitebait), a local specialty. The locals are creative and adventurous when it comes to food, serving shirasu in various ways, including raw, with noodles, on pizza, or atop a rice bowl – there’s something for everyone. The array of desserts and snacks here is also tempting, especially the sweetened adzuki beans and biscuits. For literature enthusiasts, you can visit the café often frequented by Nobel laureate Yasunari Kawabata. It is located near Komachi Street and has a long history, still open to this day. The famous Kawabata Yasunari Memorial Museum is also nearby and easy to find.

• Other optional sightseeing spots in Kamakura include the Tengazake Ukiyo-e Museum and the Shonan Matsuri Doya Bookstore.

picture provided by Susann Schuster in Unsplash

Day 10 - Jul.27 - Thu - Tokyo National Art Center - Omotesando - Yoyogi Park - Tower Records Shibuya Store

• It’s the day before leaving Japan, and finally, we can sleep in and wake up naturally. Today’s plan is to visit the Tokyo National Art Center. After getting off the subway, we took an elevator directly to the entrance of the art center. It’s more like a large exhibition hall than a traditional museum, with each hall dedicated to various themed exhibitions, and all of them are paid exhibitions. We coincidentally came across an exhibition by the Chinese visual artist Cai Guo-Qiang, known for his visual and firework designs for the 2008 Beijing Olympics and the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics.

• However, my wife and daughter chose to visit another exhibition about the application of light in various paintings. As an art novice like me, resting outside was the best choice. On the top floor, there’s an art library with a good selection of books. I found a book about ukiyo-e (woodblock prints) because I had originally planned to visit a ukiyo-e museum, but couldn’t fit it into our schedule. So I decided to learn a bit from the art book instead.

• After leaving the art center, we walked to Omotesando (35.666095, 139.710270), the place where Kanji Nagao and Rika Akana met after breakup in “Tokyo Love Story.” We had a sushi lunch at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant nearby and then went to Yoyogi Park (GPS:35.667720, 139.696650), where the iconic scenes of Kanji Nagao and Rika Akana’s first kiss and their parting. I was hoping for a large open area for photos, but unfortunately, most of it was occupied by scaffolding and various tents. It turned out that the next day they were holding a Taiwanese food street event. Previously, my friend came here for photos and encountered an Indian food street event. Why does Yoyogi Park, such a sacred place, have to be used for food events?

• However, there was also a pleasant surprise: the National Yoyogi Arena here was hosting the 2023 Japan Badminton Open. No wonder there were so many Yonex booths around. According to the official Chinese badminton account, many top Chinese players were participating. Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay to cheer for the Chinese team due to our schedule, but this unexpected encounter added more memorable moments to our trip to Japan.

• Yoyogi Park was a personal choice in our itinerary, while the rest of the family, especially my daughter, chose to visit Tower Records Shibuya Store. Tower Records is a chain of music stores originating from the United States, with the slogan No Music, No Life. It was established in 1960, but the U.S. stores closed in 2006. Now the brand mainly operates overseas, with a strong presence in Japan, where Tower Records is a haven for music enthusiasts. The Tower Records Shibuya Store has eight floors, each with specific themes and music genres. The 3rd floor mainly sells domestic pop music products, while the 6th floor offers jazz, reggae, blues, and other genres. I particularly recommend the 2nd floor’s “Tower Books,” where you can find a wide variety of magazines and books related to music and art, including many imported hardcover versions. They also sell original Tower Records merchandise, such as tote bags and T-shirts. The adjacent “Tower Record Cafe” offers occasional limited-edition collaborative dishes, and the dining space is very relaxing.

• After buying some records, we returned to our accommodation. We spent the remaining money on the Suica card at Family Mart and prepared to head home the next day.

Day 11 - Jul.28 - Fri - Tokyo - Shanghai - Hangzhou

• Today’s mission is to use up all the money on the Suica card and then return it at the airport to get the 500 yen deposit back per card.
• There is a direct subway line from Asakusa to Narita Airport, very convenient. After spending so many days in Japan, we had already become experts in using ticket machines.
• The airport procedures were very fast, and the security check didn’t take much time either. The journey back was smooth!

Activities

Reference Links

Tokyo

• Eternal Classic - Watch Tokyo Love Story Online
• Eternal Classic - Download Tokyo Love Story

Kyoto

• Gion Matsuri The Complete Guide to Gion Matsuri in Kyoto 2023

Wakayama

• Wakayama Independent Travel

Books and Movies

• Book: “Peeking into Japan” - Kawataro Meo
• Movie: “Always - Sunset on Third Street” film series
• Movie: “Our Little Sister” - Hirokazu Kore-eda (Kamakura)
• Movie: Ryoma-den - Starring Masaharu Fukuyama

Travel Card Purchase

• Understand ICOCA and SUICA One Minute Guide to Japanese Transportation Cards - Difference between Suica and ICOCA
• JR Kansai Wide Area Pass. Taobao Store
• Understanding Asakusa Line

Shinkansen Introduction: Japan’s high-speed train, known as Shinkansen or “bullet train,” is operated by JR (Japan Railways). The Tokaido Shinkansen connects Tokyo, Kyoto, Nagoya, and Osaka. Shinkansen trains operate at three speed levels: “Nozomi,” “Hikari,” and “Kodama.”

• Nozomi: Takes about 140 minutes from Tokyo to Kyoto.
• Hikari: Takes about 160 minutes on the Hikari train.
• Kodama: Takes about 4 hours on the Kodama train. TIPS: The round-trip fare from Tokyo to Kyoto on Shinkansen is about 27,000 yen, nearly the same as the price of the Japan Rail Pass 7-day ticket. It is recommended to purchase the Japan Rail Pass 7-day ticket for multiple trips or travel to other places within the validity period. With the Japan Rail Pass, you can take Hikari and Kodama, but not Nozomi. Passengers with the Japan Rail Pass can ride all other trains except Nozomi.